Icewine

Have you ever been poured a glass of the sweet golden liquid known as Icewine? Its honeyed richness coats the palate with vinous delight. In Canada, Icewine has deservedly become our country’s most famous wine style. Yet despite Icewine often being associated with Canada, did you know the origins of making wine from frozen grapes lie in Germany?

There are some indications that Icewine was made as early as 100 AD but it wasn’t until the early part of the 19th century that Icewine reappeared in Germany as a wine style and it wasn’t made in any consistent way until the 1960s. If Germany created the style, it is certainly true Canadians have brought it to the world’s attention. In 1991 Inniskillin’s 1989 Vidal Icewine took home the Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo; an astounding achievement for a Canadian wine. Ever since the popularity of Canadian Icewine has spread and wineries from Nova Scotia to British Columbia are winning awards at international wine competitions for their dessert wines.

So how is Icewine made? All countries that produce Icewine from frozen grapes have very rigid standards to protect the quality of the wine. In Canada this means the grapes cannot be picked until the temperature drops to minus 8°C for a sustained period. The freezing concentrates the grapes sugars and acids. The frozen grapes are then pressed immediately resulting in a sweet liquid. Canadian Icewine must be made from a must (the grape juice) with a sugar level of 35 Brix or above. If it doesn’t achieve this standard the wine must be labeled as Select Late Harvest.

For most of us it would all sound a risky proposition. Allowing grapes to sit on the vine until they achieve a frozen state can be wrought with dangers. Thankfully, in Canada, achieving the chilly temperatures required to make Icewine is an annual and very natural occurrence. Natural is an important qualifier for Icewine. In Canada, all Icewine is authentic, but unfortunately this isn’t the case around the world. Canada is the world’s largest exporter of Icewine but sales are diminishing on the world stage due to imposters making wine by freezing grapes artificially. Many of these wines are fraudulently labeled as Canadian Icewine and sold at less price the authentic Canadian Icewine. Consider that it takes approximately 10 times the grapes to make Icewine as it would a still wine it is understandable why Canadian Icewine is expensive.

Given its expense, it is important to know when to serve Icewine. Icewine can be enjoyed as an aperitif or makes an excellent pairing to rich foods such blue cheese, foie gras and fruit based desserts. If you are mixologist, Icewine also makes an excellent cocktail. Try combining Icewine with vodka and topping with sparkling wine or try combining equal parts Icewine and vodka for a Icewine Martini.